Eight rhinos killed by poachers in Kruger National Park – see related article.

3 more rhino carcasses found - see related article.

I have something to tell you – see related video.

The Rhino Wars – see related video.

PlanetSave overview.

In June 2000, I had the privilege of travelling to a trail camp within the Kruger National Park, at a location roughly 10km from the Berg-en-dal restcamp, in the middle of the bush and separated from the rest of the park by a single strand of wire.  Here, in the the company of the park’s game rangers, we set out at dusk and dawn on several walks to experience the African bush life, one of which takes in the Wolhuter Trail, the oldest in the park, established in 1978 in the area frequented by the legendary rangers, Harry and Henry Wolhuter. It is a unique experience and one which helped to forge my views on the environment, my attitude to wildlife in general and my extreme sadness at the current crises regarding the poaching of rhino in South Africa.

Read more and see how close we able to venture to see a single rhino grazing in it’s natural habitat.

Support Save the Rhino International

Click on any of the images below and make a donation now! 

Ironically, in the mid-1990′s, whilst on a Whichway Adventures tour from Cape Town to Nairobi through several African countries, I chickened out of doing this very same bungee jump at Victoria Falls Bridge.  

This is what I wrote at the time:

After acquiring some Zim dollars at the bank, I went off at about 11h30 to watch those who had elected to do the bungee jump. In all, Faff, Chris, Jo, Mark, Nic and Aviette from our tour group did the jump. A great sense of team spirit prevailed. I took some photos beforehand and also used the motor-drive during some of the jumps, so as to create a sequence of shots. The tension was clearly evident as each one took the plunge, which was soon followed by elation and enormous relief at having completed it successfully. The organisers used their experience in preparing each participant psychologically for the jump. On occasions this involved some humour for light relief: “If the rope snaps and you end up in the water, then remember to swim for the right embankment to avoid the crocodiles!” 

Shearwater Adventures, the tourism company which also organised the bungee jump and whitewater rafting activities way back then and now, during the recent incident, voluntarily suspended bungee activities at Victoria Falls, whilst the accident involving the Australian tourist is being investigated.

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The magnificent Victoria Falls are at a height of 128m. The location is known as ’The Devil’s Swimming Pool’.  During the months of September and December, people can swim as close as possible to the edge of the falls without falling over! These falls are becoming well known amongst the ‘radical tourist’ industry as more and more people search for the ultimate experience.

Would you dare?

South African virtuoso finger-style guitarist, Tony Cox.

It hardly seems appropriate to refer to the immense talents of two young guitarists as precocious, when, in reality, Italian guitarist Andrea Valeri and South African guitarist Richard Onraët, a protégé of South African virtuoso Tony Cox, display a level of skill and maturity that belies their youthfulness. Having arrived home in South Africa for the first time in four years, it was a stroke of good fortune on my part to discover that Tony Cox’s International Guitar Night was on at Mark’s Park Sports Club in Emmarentia, a suburb of Johannesburg. Dragging my eldest brother along for the evening, he was suitably blown away by the sheer brilliance of three such fine acoustic finger-style guitar talents, the likes of which he had never witnessed before, in particular, the star attraction of the mini festival, Andrea Valeri.

Italy's designated prince of the acoustic guitar, Andrea Valeri.

Not one to shy away from musical indulgence myself, it was without hesitation, therefore, that I hastily contacted a Cape Town-based brother of mine prior to flying down to the Mother City, to persuade him to share in my repeat of this magical experience. The venue for the event was the old Olympia Bakery in the tranquil seaside village of Kalk Bay, nestled off Cape Town’s False Bay. Served a plate of the most delicious linguine seafood pasta at the adjacent, somewhat Bohemian Olympia Café beforehand, we were still early enough to join the queue and grab front row seats.

Richard Onraët, an amazing talent, only 21 years of age.

Richard Onraët was first up on stage, playing his own compositions primarily off his first cd release. In contrast to his slightly shy, nervous disposition when communicating with the audience, his playing style is confident and smooth. Trained at the Stellenbosch Conservatoire, the story goes that he came to Tony at the tender age of 15 seeking lessons, having already mastered a most of Tony’s repertoire. Richard has written some beautiful, heartfelt melodies and his compositions coupled with a gentle style and flawless technique, are both warm and engaging.  ’ I particularly liked Relief‘, allegedly written during a dark period in his life, which starts off gently but soon picks up tempo. His set closed with a countrified version of Led Zeppelins Stairway to Heaven.

Tony Cox - "You asked for it"

What can one say about the legendary Tony Cox that hasn’t already been written? A wonderful story-teller with a wicked sense of humour, Tony’s rather shortened set compromised songs [1] showcasing his eclectic style and virtuosity, including tunes off his latest cd entitled The summer comes my loves, which included the title track, 8th Nerve and Salty Towers, all featuring his custom-designed Mervyn Davis guitar. Tony must have read my mind, as he concluded his set with the tour de force classic You asked for it.

Andrea Valeri graces South African shores.

The ambassador of the acoustic guitar, Andrea Valeri.

Extraordinary Italian guitarist Andrea Valeri, described as the ambassador of the acoustic guitar in his native country, was at 18 presented with the Excellence of Italian Music Award.  Warm and charming and a total extrovert on stage, it’s not hard to see why Andrea has received a plethora of accolades at such a tender age.  He is a truly remarkable and brilliant guitarist and captivates his audience totally . Tony recounts a similar experience when seeing him for the first time at a guitar festival in Italy.

South African guitar legend Tony Cox.

What struck me as I sat in the front row of this rambling old bakery in Kalk Bay, was the sheer ease and fluidity of his playing style. His set features a couple of covers, including Roy Orbison’s Pretty Woman and Dire Straits’ Sultans of Swing, plus many of his own compositions that highlight his mesmerizing skill and musicianship, some off his latest cd Maybe. Not without humour, Tango & Vai is just one example that demonstrates his finger-style technique.

Italian guitar maestro Andrea Valeri.

As part of the encore, Richard Onraët was invited back on stage, as the two delivered a blistering rendition of the 1968 guitar instrumental Classical Gas, knocking sparks off one another in the process.

The show personified what I love most about music. This is not pre-packaged X-factor style schmaltz but a demonstration of true, honest musicianship at its best. Having previously brought the likes of Antonia Forcione to these shores, Tony has once more pulled off a coup, by introducing us to the talents of Andrea Valeri. May this festival continue to grow and gain the support it richly deserves.

1968's Classical Gas, performed in 2011 by Richard and Andrea.

Pancha Ratha monolithic rock-cut architecture, Mahabalipuram.

Back in Blighty, to its cold winter weather and grey skies, after 5 weeks in Chennai on company business. I never thought I would hear myself say this. I have begun to miss the place! Yes, as insanely chaotic as India may be, I miss the people I worked with, the generous warmth and hospitality gifted me and the vibrancy of its cluttered cities and villages, the Hindu temples, the rice paddie fields, the palm trees,

Vending fruit in Mahabalipuram.

the cows slumped in the road or by the roadside, the auto-rickshaws, the crazy, random driving and mad hooting of the horns, the up-to-four people on a motorbike, the broad smiles in response to the mispronounced “Vanakam” or “Nandri”, the Tamil tongue, the spicy but delicious food, barfi sweets, driver Arul’s introduction to contemporary Tamil music like the “Mangatha” soundtrack, the salwar suite with saree,  the humidity and monsoon rains…………I miss it all.

Kamakshi Temple.

* * * Watch a YouTube clip, driving the last section off the IT Highway, Navalur, Chennai, to the toll-booth near the HCL offices, during monsoon rains. * * *

Kapaleeswarar Temple, Chennai.

Selling flower garlands at Kapaleeswarar Temple.

The High Street, Sembakkam, near Ilango's home.

I was privileged and honoured to have been extended an invitation to the humble abode of Ilangovan and his wife Satanya, for Sunday. Murugesan drove me to the suburb of Sembakkam after fetching me around 11h30. En route I had asked him to stop off at a supermarket so that I could buy some chocolates however after queueing for what seemed like an eternity, I lost patience and returned the goods to the shelf, leaving empty-handed. With no air-conditioning to speak of inside, I was sweating profusely. I arrived at their apartment. Satanya was a picture of elegance, attired in a pale yellow salwar suit.

Gupta Bhavan, Sembakkam, Chennai -shopping for Barfi sweets.

Buying Barfui sweets in Gupta Bhavanm, Sembakkam.

Ilango was aware that I was after some contemporary Tamil music. Despite the rain, we walked to a small music store on the main road, just two blocks from his home.

Motor cycles are the rage - up to 3 on a cycle, no helmets!

I discovered that the music Arul had been playing in the car some two weeks ago on the way back from our 500 km trip across Tamil Nadu, were all off a recently released mp3 cd. And a right royal bargain it turned out to be at 40 rupees! Taking an auto rickshaw (my first!)  to a confectionery store, we were hoping for a coffee but settled for some barfi, a traditional Indian sweet. We returned around 14h00 for lunch, a delicious traditional South Indian vegetarian meal of tomato rice prepared by Satanya.

This sacred animal finds parking up Sembakkam's High Street.

After tea, the three of us made our way to the bus stop on the main road. Owing to the heavy rains over the last few days, sections of the road were so severely flooded that pedestrians were forced to walk in the middle of the road. I cannot come to terms with the unbelievable wanton dumping of refuse that is prevalent almost anywhere you go in this region, in some instances, piled in a heap on the roadside, up the High Street. What strikes me too are are the number of stray dogs roaming the streets. The exotic smells and odours of India are not always of incense and spices.

Sembakkam's High Street, outside Gupta Bhavan sweet shop.

Forced to stand in the bus, which I was quite happy to do, it was only a short ride to Tambaram railway station. Situated at the base of a flyover, a long walkway leads down to the station complex. En route, it’s a hive of activity, vendors peddling their wares, mostly food. It struck me how seldom I saw anyone smoking. Ilango bought the tickets and we crossed over to one of a number of platforms via an overhead bridge, after an announcement had been aired. There is no escaping the sheer volume of people you encounter almost anywhere you go, which comes as no surprise, given that India is the second most populous country on the planet, with over 1.22 billion people, more than a sixth of the world’s population.

Ilangovan and Satanya hosting lunch

Ilangovan near his home in Sembakkam, the grey block on the right-hand side.

Boarding a fast train jam-packed with people, we journeyed to Chengalpattu, a ride of some 20 minutes. It’s en route to Chennai Beach, a railway terminus of the Southern Railway Network in Chennai. The name is derived from a kind of blue coloured lily flower called ‘chenkazhuneer poo’, once found aplenty in all water resources of the area. Vendors forced their way through the crowds cramming the aisles, selling tea, peanuts and samosas.

Auto rickshaws line up at Tambaram railway station.

Tambaram railway station

Reaching the town, we passed Kolavai Lake, which the station also overlooks. It is the second largest lake in the Kanchipuram District after the Madhuranthagam Lake.

Chengalpattu station

Kolavai Lake is well known for its perenniality. There are no records of going dry in summers. It even supplies water to industries in Chennai when the lakes in Chennai go dry however is now being polluted due to the rapid urbanisation of Chengalpattu. We did not venture into town, Ilango electing to return almost as soon as we got there. Dark by the time we reached Tambaram, with the bus slow in arriving, we hopped onto an auto rickshaw to Ilango’s home in the suburb of Sembakkam.

Chengalpattu railway station

Situated directly behind Ilango’s apartment is a delightful small park, an oasis within the vast, urban sprawl, with a water fountain in its midst. Adjacent to the park is the Catholic church of St Joseph’s, also known as Mahalakshmi Nagar church. It’s a large, whitewashed complex with an adjacent hall. A service was in progress as we walked by, the congregation spilling out onto the tarmac at the front of the church. A wonderful sound emanated from within, as worshippers burst into harmonius chorus during the service.

Ilangovan & Satanya at Chengalpattu station, overlooking Kolavai Lake.

Back at the apartment, Ilango called Murugesan to fetch me. It’s a strange experience being ferried to and fro but it’s the safest option for foreign, who would struggle to come to grips with India’s chaotic driving culture. As my final weekend in India drew to a close, I reflected on the 5 weeks I had been here. Taking the best with the worst, it had been a memorable experience.

*** Watch the YouTube clip of Ilango and I riding up Sembakkam’s High Street in an auto rickshaw – one thing I simply had to do! ***

Subu, Abilash and Richard on Marina Beach, Chennai.

Monday 21st November arrived and I felt sufficient hunger to nibble through an omelette and some French toast at breakfast, despite my recent instability in the potty department. Ilango had taken a long weekend off so as to return to his home town, Trichy, as it is known. After hearing of the trials and tribulations of Richard and I upon his return, he arranged for a resident HCL doctor to examine us, primarily to check our blood pressure and take our temperatures.

Midweek, Ilango’s boss, Prasad, invited us for lunch at the upmarket Fortune Hotel, located along the IT Highway into Chennai. It is hard to come to terms with the huge disparity between the opulence within the confines of the hotel and the poverty so evident elsewhere one travels.

Mylapore, a suburb of Chennai.

The concern regarding our well-being continued unabated. Now based in Chennai, Charlie Gardiner, our former CEO at Welwyn Garden City, had suggested to senior manager Ramesh  Satyanarayana that I see a doctor. Well acquainted with the variety of ailments India has to offer any unsuspecting visitor and never one to mince his words, Charlie’s enquiry to Richard seemed appropriate in the context. In a broad Glaswegian accent, he remarked: “I hear you guys have been s—ing your brains out.”

Ramesh made the call and so soon I found myself conveying precisely the details with regard to the condition of my nether region, to a local gastroenterologist, via a hands-free telephone conversation. An appointment was arranged for the Friday morning.

Garlands of flowers on sale at the temple.

Hindu temple in Chennai

Luckily the doctor’s location wasn’t too far off, in Kothupuram, in downtown Chennai. The monsoon weather had set in over the last few days, resulting in his being held up in the rush-hour traffic. In the interim, an elderly but affable substitute doctor was available for the examination – he immediately requested a sample.  Back in the waiting room, an earnest discussion in Tamilese was taking place amongst staff and nurses at the front desk. I obviously understood none of what they were saying however the one term that popped up regularly, I shall refer to euphemistically, as a small, wooden, backless item one might be inclined to sit upon. Their facial expressions certainly conveyed the sentiment of what they were discussing. Provided with a tiny plastic tube, what was subsequently asked of me called for an extreme level of dexterity coupled with a measure of good luck.

Just outside the temple in Mylapore, Chennai.

Having waited an age for the report to surface, the doctor confirmed that I had evidently picked up an infection. I was advised to abstain from all spicy food and alcohol and to consume only bland food – presumably that referred to Western food. I left around 10h45 after settling the bill, though I thought not having 50 rupees change for a 500 rupees bill rather poor show. A further surprise was in store for me as I left the clinic. An earlier downpour had resulted in the entire lane leading up to the entrance being totally under water. No-one had told me that a visit to the quack involved having to swim the last 10 metres to the front door! Murugesan, the driver, had to reverse the car all the way so that I could get in. After a stop-off at a pharmacy en route to pick up the medication, I was back at HCL. This being Richard’s last day, he was treated to a farewell presentation by the team. He flew out early Saturday morning back to the UK.

Anyone for something hot to eat?

Food for sale on Marina Beach.

Determined to learn a few words of Tamil whilst in the country, I discovered the enormous difference in people’s reactions if you make an attempt, albeit just a word or two. A stroll from the hotel to a shop along the IT Highway Saturday morning, I greeted some local folk with a wave of the hand, a nod of the head, followed by the words “Vanakam, eppadi irukkinga?”, meaning “Hello, how are you?”, whereas “Appuram pakkalam” means “see you later”, appropriate when being dropped off by the driver. It does help to get the two the right way around, hence the puzzled look from my driver!  I have to say, though, that ”Nandri” (thank you!) is a sheer winner and invariably raises a broad smile, whether it be from anyone you might address in a shop or the ladies serving the tea in the HCL canteen.

Marina Beach, Chennai

Counting is as follows:

Onru: 1,   Irandu: 2,   Moonru: 3,   Naangu: 4,   Ainthu:5,   Aaru: 6,   Yeahzu: 7,   Ettu: 8,   Onpadhu: 9  and Patthu: 10.

It takes some practice though!

View of Chennai from St Thomas Mount.

Colleague Richard Bradford and I had simultaneously fallen foul of the notorious Delhi Belly, with a spell of dizziness for good measure. Nonetheless, we felt an obligation to honour our arrangement with Subu and Abilash, who graciously offered to show us a bit of Chennai, so we resolved not to disappoint them. Chris the driver showed up at 10h00 Sunday morning, as arranged.

St Thomas Mount church

Picking up the other two en route, our first port of call was St Thomas Mount, a small hillock not far from Chennai airport. St. Thomas Mount is associated with St Thomas, the apostle of Christ, who is believed to have been martyred here.  A serene and beautiful relic-filled church built in 1523 by the Portuguese stands on top of this 300-foot hillock. Pope John Paul II visited St. Thomas Mount on 5 February 1986. A service was in progress, following a strict Catholic format. The views from the hillside were magnificent, offering a virtual 3600 degrees panorama.

Chennai Airport from St Thomas Mount

Heading into heavy traffic in central Chennai, we arrived at Spencer Plaza, built during the period of the British Raj, when, in the year 1863-1864, it was the first Departmental store to be established on the Indian subcontinent. It was reconstructed in 1985. I was on the hunt for some contemporary Indian music. Arul’s dose of music on the drive back from Vellore the week before had got under my skin! I bought the Mangatha soundtrack cd, a Tamil movie [trailer clip].  Bollywood movies are the rage in India! Richard and I abstained from lunch as the others tucked into some fast food.

Fort St George Museum, Chennai

Central Chennai struck me as a rather agreeable city, though I wished I was in a better state to appreciate it. Generally, it’s much cleaner than the squalor we have encountered in the suburbs, along the IT highway. An abundance of trees gives an impression of being much like any other city with a colonial past, a combination of the old and the new.

Fort St George was established by the British in 1640, marking the birth of the new city that is Madras. The fort was named after St George who is believed to have preached in the region.  The British East India Company bought the land in 1639 and built the fort a year later. a commanding post in the region. The British enjoyed the supremacy in the region till 1746, when the French attacked the fort and captured it. After three years, that is in 1749 the British regained the ruling power by signing a treaty with the French.

Timeless age of Fort St George

The fort in present Chennai houses the Tamil Nadu Secretariat and the Legislative Assembly. The fort in its present form looks more like a mansion, rather any fort. The foundation walls of the structure are quite solid and the whole complex is provided with enormous gates. The building is a live example of British milliatary architecture of the bygone era. St George’s Fort also houses one of the oldest British Church in India. The church called St Mary’s was built in the year 1680. The Lighthouse in the northern compound was built in the year 1844 and superseded by one more in 1971. There is a museum in the fort that contains some of the archives of the British occupation in India. Besides other attractions, the museum contains the portraits of the British high officials of the time.

Richard, Abilash and Subu

The real purpose of my visit here was to explore the connection of my grandfather, Edward Groves, to Fort St George. He had referred to it in his memoirs, having passed through Madras (as Chennai was known during the time of British colonial rule) on his return from Rangoon, Burma, to London, circa 1910, with wife and children, as a member of the British Army.

Santhome Basilica, Chennai

“I had transferred most of money to London, leaving enough to see us through the journey and for the next three days all we had to do was eat, sleep and watch the endless miles of the Bay of Bengal. This time we were taking the long way across and landing at Madras instead of Calcutta. We managed to find enough amusement for the children on board and the time passed much quicker than I expected, so that when we saw land in the distance on the third day it surprised us all. We disembarked  the next day after breakfast and were met by a party of Yorkshire regiment, who handled all our baggage and drove us to the rest camp outside the Madras Fort. We stayed there only one and a half days and had some surf bathing on a wonderful beach. The children were very interested in the landing of the Catamaran (Native fishing boats) which were rushed ashore on the crest of very high waves”.

Santhome Basilica, Chennai

A troop of slim, young Tamil women in uniform manned the entrance to the fort. It’s a fascinating museum and I loved the building in which it is housed, adorned with a front veranda. Containing artefacts of its colonial, of particular interest to me were the India service medals on display, similar to those that my grandfather might have acquired, having spent much time in India in the service of the British realm (my father once had a set of my grandfather’s medals, borrowed under a false pretext by someone in our family but that’s another story).

Entering Kapaleeswarar Temple

We were then ferried to two places of religious worship. Santhome Basilica is a Roman Catholic minor basilica in Santhome, in Chennai. It was built in the 16th century by Portuguese explorers, and rebuilt again with the status of a cathedral, in Neo-Gothic style, by the British, in 1893. Kapaleeswarar Temple is a temple of Shiva located in Mylapore, a suburb of Chennai. The temple’s name is derived from the words kapalam (head) and eeshwararan alias of Shiva. It’s design is of typical Dravidian architectural style.

Hindu Gods, as depicted on Kapaleeswarar Temple.

Rounding off the day’s trip, a walk along Marina Beachat dusk could have been more fitting. Crowds of people enjoyed the last hour or so of daylight, a line of fishing boats lay in a row on the edge of the shore. Vendors plied their trade for a few rupees.

Despite our rather dismal state of health, Richard and I had survived the day, exhausted yet intact. It had been a worthwhile experience and for that we have to thank our hosts, Subu and Abilash.

Women at Kapaleeswarar Temple.

Kapaleeswarar Temple, an example of Dravidian architecture.

Marina Beach, Chennai

A Hindu Temple not far from the Gem Inn Resort

After a long day on the road unday viewing temples, I felt surprinsingly fresh come Monday morning. Ilango had taken the day off to apply for a licence for his new scooter however he arrived back the next day, bitterly disappointed that he had failed the test on a technicality.  Despite his disability, he had, without question, demonstrated his ability in riding the scooter with sufficient skill. Back at the hotel for dinner, the Kenny G music, repeated night after night, was beginning to get up everyone’s noses.

Richard fraternizes with the locals in Navalur, Chennai.

Early Wednesday morning, I was awoken at 2 a.m. by a call from reception. “Hi, Peter, Richard here”, said the voice in a broad Geordie accent, which I recognised as belonging to a colleague of mine from the UK. “They’ve messed up my booking. Can I come and kip in your lounge?” the voice added.

“Richard who?” I retorted. Having arrived at Chennai airport in the early hours of the morning, the Gem Inn weren’t expecting him to check in until later in the day. A portable bed was brought into the lounge.

Times of India

“Do you think it’ll be comfortable enough for you?” the cheeky Northerner quipped.  “I brought my tent along”, I replied, “You can always sleep on the lawn out the back, if you like!” After breakfast, some hours later, Richard’s room was available. So the bugger bags the penthouse. Some people have all the luck.

A hardware store on the IT Highway, Navalur, Chennai.

In the course of our stay at the Gem Inn, the American contingent and I had, by and large, found the staff quite reasonable, however, we had taken one character in particular to our hearts, above all, for his devotion to his duties, his politeness and personable manner.

Nothing was too much for Sudeep! It was clear that he also had the intelligence to match. Having broken off his studies after running out of funds, he had worked at the hotel for a spell and was now about to resume his activities as a student, as well as attending his sister’s wedding.  Bob, Richard and I were convinced he deserved a decent tip before he left, in recognition for his service.

Sudeep

I ordered a dessert in my room and made sure that Sudeep would serve it in person, which he subsequently did.  His response when I presented him with an amount in rupees, which, by European standards, was certainly not excessive, was humbling to say the least.

He sank to his knees to thank me profusely, such was the humility and extent of his gratefulness. I quickly summoned him to his feet. “Let me shake your hand as a gentleman and fellow human being”, I implored. The others reported a similar experience the next day. Bob Kane and Jayson Richardson left for home Thursday evening with the remainder to follow. By the weekend, the entire American contingent had left, Tim being the last.

Pull in your cart for a coke?

Ilango had been planning a  trip to his hometown over the weekend and was keen that I should join him however since Richard had arrived, I thought it better to stay. Instead we had an arrangement Sunday to travel into downtown Chennai for some sightseeing with Subu and Abilash, two young HCL engineers. Besides, Saturday provided an opportunity for a rest and to catch up on my blog. In the afternoon, Richard and I went for a stroll down the IT Highway, heading towards the university. Temperatures soared and the humidity made one perspire profusely. We stopped for a coffee at a cafe en route. Upon our return, we headed for a dip at the Gem Inn outdoor swimming pool. I watched some live cricket on TV as South Africa engaged the Australians in a titanic battle.

IT Highway, Navalur, a Chennai suburb

Little were Richard and I to realise, how ill we were later to become. At dinner around 19h00, we chatted to the well-spoken, very elegant and charming hostess, Archana by name, who had attained a Masters in zoology. Despite having ordered a main course, Richard expressed a total lack of appetite and hardly touched his food. I watched the first half of his team, Newcastle, against Manchester City, in his lounge, at 111. Exhausted, I returned to my room.

It was at that moment that I was overcome by an extreme case of Delhi Belly. Ooh, boy! Not what the doctor ordered.

*** Watch the video “Driving the IT Highway, Navalur, Chennai” on YouTube! ***

Sathyabama University

A Hindu Temple on the IT Highway

Outside Kamakshi Temple in the town of Kanchipuram

Up at 5 a.m., the taxi arrived at the Gem Inn around a half an hour later. It was Arul, who had fetched me from the airport upon my arrival in India some three weeks ago. All he drivers who had served us are with the AMT Tours & Travels company. I had assured the American contingent Saturday that they were welcome to join in, however the early start seemed to put them off. Imagine my surprise the next morning when I encountered Tim Mousaw at reception. We drove to Ilango’s apartment. Thiyagu, a member of his software development team, had also decided to participate.

The original plan had been to head directly for Vellore’s Golden Temple complex. Ilango wanted us to see the temple when lit up at night, however Thiyagu had an even better suggestion, that we deviate off the main highway and view some traditional temples first [list of temples of Tamil Nadu]. With four of us including the driver cramped in a relatively small car, it proved a bumpy ride for most of the day.

Elephants being hosed down at Kamakshi Temple

Around 08h00, we stopped off at Kanchipuram (Kāñcipuram), located on the Palar River, and known for its temples and hand-woven silk sarees. Kanchipuram is also called as “City of 1000 Temples”. The Kamakshi Temple, with its four entrances, is a famous Hindu temple dedicated to Kamakshi, one of the forms of the goddess Parvati or the universal mother goddess, seated in a majestic Padmasana, a yogic posture signifying peace and prosperity, instead of the traditional standing pose.

The grounds of Kamakshi Temple, Kanchipuram

Father and daughter

Dravidian styles of architecture are most common amongst the Hindu temples of South India, consisting almost invariably of the four following parts, differing only according to the age in which they were executed:

Ilango and Thiyagu

The principal part, the temple itself, is called the Vimanam. It is always square in plan and surmounted by a pyramidal roof of one or more stories; it contains the cell where the image of the god or his emblem is placed.

1. The porches or Mantapams, which always cover and precede the door leading to the cell.
2. Gate-pyramids, Gopurams, which are the principal features in the quadrangular enclosures that surround the more notable temples.
3. Pillared halls or Chaultris, the proper name being Chawadis.

Worshipers in major temples typically bring in symbolic offerings for the prayer or puja. This includes fruits, flowers, sweets and other symbols of the bounty of the natural world. When inside the temple, it is typical to keep both hands folded together as a sign of respect.

Families visit the temple

The inner sanctuary, where the murtis (a representation of a divinity) reside, is known as the garbhagruh. It symbolizes the birthplace of the universe, the meeting place of the gods and mankind, and “the threshold between the transcendental and the phenomenal worlds.” It is in this inner shrine that devotees offer prayers and salutations to the presiding deities.

Sculptures of the gods on the main pyramid-gate, Kamakshi Temple

Devotees may or may not be able to personally present their offerings at the feet of the deity. In most South Indian temples, only the pujaris (priests) are allowed to enter into the garbhagruh. Visitors and worshipers to Hindu temples are required to remove shoes and other footwear before entering.

One of four pyramd-gates, Kamakshi Temple

Entering through the main gate, a courtyard surrounds the main temple. Families, the elderly, the young, the wealthy and equally, the poor, are encountered within the precinct. It’s an extraordinary sight for the uninitiated, upon first encountering a Hindu temple, a place of serenity and complex mysticism. At the rear of the couryard, behind a large pool, a number of elephants were being hosed down within their cages. We met a father, his wife and daughter, keen to establish our country of origin. At no stage did I feel unwelcome, despite not being permitted entry to the inner sanctum.

Kamakshi Temple

We adjorned for breakfast at a hotel in the town, Ilango insisting that we order a mini tiffin, a tray containing an assortment of foods, including dosa, sambar idli [see recipe], pongal with sambar [see recipe], coconut chutney [see recipe] and pudhina chutney [see recipe], which I particularly liked.

Ēkāmparanātar temple, Kāñcipuram

Ēkāmparanātar temple, in the heart of the same town, Kāñcipuram, is in some respects even more extraordinary. It is one of the five major Civā temples, each representing a natural element. Whilst earth is represented here, the remaining temples symbolize water, ether, fire and wind. One notable feature of the temple is the Āyiram Kāl Maṇṭapam, or the “hallway with a thousand pillars”, which was built by the Vijayanagar Kings.

Tim, Ilango and Thiyagu, pyramid-gate

The temple’s inner walls are decorated with an array of 1,008 Civaliṅkam built in single stone. There used to be a 3, 500 year old mango tree in the temple that collapsed two three years back. It is said that the sacred mango tree had 4 different branches that symbolized the for Vedas, a large body of texts originating in ancient India. that constitute the oldest layer of Sanskrit literature and the oldest scriptures of Hinduism.

Pyramid-gate doorway, Ēkāmparanātar temple

Whilst Ilango and Tiyagu adjourned to the inner sanctum, Tim and I walked the hallway surrounding the central place of workship. We were suddenly joined by a small group of young boys, one of whom thrust his hand forward to shake ours, the others following suit, each introducing themselves, broad smiles flashed across their excited faces.

When Ilango and Thiyagu returned, a translated conversation ensued over cricket, causing them to giggle with delight. This was followed by a group photo session. They had come to the temple to seek a blessing for exams they were about to write. Upon wishing them luck, a further round of handshaking resulted. Ilango spotted a newly wed couple and so we wandered over to wish them.

Ēkāmparanātar temple hallway corridor

Inside Ēkāmparanātar temple

Meeting the kids, Ēkāmparanātar temple, Kāñcipuram

Wedding couple, Ēkāmparanātar temple

Back on the road, we traversed the town of Vandavasi, the scene of a decisive battle in the 18th-century war between France and the United Kingdom for the control of South-East Asia.

After some time we reached the district of Villupuram, built during the Vijay Nagar period. The town of Gingee is surrounded by several hills of barren volcanic rocks. Nestled on three hills, and enclosed by a huge rampart 60 feet thick, stands the majestic Gingee Fort.

To quote [1]: “The three hills form the angular points of a rough equilateral triangle. A huge rampart, about 60 ft. in thickness and a ditch about 80 ft. in breadth encloses the entire space, going all around it. The walls are built of strong blocks of granite. This massive enclosed track forms the lower fort. It is three miles in perimeter and has two main entrances piercing it, namely, the Arcot or Vellore gate and the Pondicherry gate”.

Coconuts on sale

Thiyagu & Ilango receiving a sweet milk blessing

View of Ēkāmparanātar temple

Temple spires